Whimsical Pin Cushion

Sewing Angel

Make your own Companion Fabric

Here is an idea for adding interest to your sewing project. This is Vogue 8714 that I made in a grey rayon woven that is lovely, but it needed some pizazz. I had some  vintage square mother-of-pearl buttons, so I decided to embellish the front panel with straight stitching to mimic the shape of the buttons.

 It was quite easy to do this. I used the front panel pattern piece and cut a piece of fabric that was about two inches bigger on all sides than the pattern. It is important to do this rough cut prior to embellishing the fabric because many embellishment techniques can cause shrinkage during sewing. I wanted the stitching patten on the diagonal. I thought that would be more interesting than if it were either vertical, or horizontal on the garment.
 The first step I took was to press a light crease at a  45 degree angle across the approximate center of the panel. Next, with the right side of the fabric facing up I sewed along this crease from one edge of the fabric to the other. Using the edge of the presser foot as a guide, I continued stitching row after row of equally spaced stitching until  half of the fabric was filled with straight rows of stitching. I then did the same on the other half of the fabric. After the entire piece was fill with evenly spaced rows of stitching, I pressed in another 45 degree angle and used it to repeat the whole process. As the photo shows I ended up with perfectly shaped squares but on the diagonal grain of the fabric.
 This process took some time, but I have always enjoyed this kind of sewing. I sort of get "in the zone" and just keep checking that the edge of the presser foot is right on the line of the previous row of stitching.  Next, I used the pattern piece and cut the front panel exactly to the pattern shape.
 The white stitches looked so nice on the fabric that I decided to continue with that thread for the top stitching at all of the garment edges.

There were two buttons remaining so I used the scraps from the embellished fabric to make two tabs that I sewed into the side seams right above the waist.

Hum....what should I sew?

 The potpourri of choices that can be made when marrying  fabric and a sewing pattern can be really overwhelming, and exciting at the same time! In the next few posts I plan to explore these decisions so that perhaps you will find a comfortable starting point.
 One of the best places to start thinking about a sewing project is far away from a fabric store. You can spend a bit of time in your own closet looking at what you like to wear. Most of us have certain types of garments that we wear a lot. I call these workhorses. These are clothes that make you "feel like you" when you wear them.

 An observation of the clothing that  you already own gives you a number of clues. Do you choose clothing that fits close to the body? Do you choose certain styles that camouflage a figure flaw? Do you feel best in garments with sleeves. Do you choose v-necks, or square necks? Most of us gravitate to certain clothing designs again, and again.

 Trendy ready-to-wear is followed closely by the pattern and fabric companies. If we want to mimic current "fast fashion" we certainly can, and some of us may want to do that, but if todays styles leave you distressed you can choose to make something that could be your next workhorse! You can sew fashion forward patterns that  have  the silhouette, and design details that you know you will like.

Antique Pin Cushion

                                                    Antique Pin Cushion

Mastering Miters

Mitered corners are a beautiful way to finish a hem! Miters may seem like a difficult technique to master, but hopefully these photos, and my description of the steps involved will demystify miters. They really are easy! I am using a one inch hem in my tutorial, but this technique works equally well if you choose to make a wider hem. I am starting with a square of green fabric that I want to make into a tablecloth.

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Step 1.
  Press a crease evenly on all sides of the fabric. I have pressed a crease at 1/2".

Step 2. Fold and press fabric again on all edges of fabric. I have evenly pressed up a 1" hem.

Step 3: Using two pins carefully mark the point at which each hem intersects the other hem.

Step 4. Open the two hems, and with right sides together match the two pins together keeping the 1/2" crease folded in. Draw a diagonal line from the pin to the point where the corners of the 1" hem meet.

Step 5. Sew along this line locking your stitches at the beginning and end of your little seam.

 

Step 6. Trim the extra fabric close to the seam to remove the bulk from the corner.

Step 7. Turn the seam to the inside. Press the little seam to make a square corner. Stitch, pivoting your stitches at the corner.

  Now, make yourself a nice cup of coffee, and bask in the joy of mastering the miter!

Let the Fabric Dictate the Style


 A number of years ago I found this fantastic silk print. Oriental designs have always called to me, so I purchased a number of yards of this special fabric. This was expensive silk, so I wanted to make a garment that would not be too trendy so that I would enjoy wearing it for years. My primary goal though was to let the print really shine.

 I made a simple kimono jacket. This style choice spoke to the theme of the fabric, and the print is interrupted only at the side seams. I used a lightweight black silk crepe to add a band at the front, and at the hem of the sleeves. This contrast makes the print "pop". I added vents at the lower side seams for a bit more  style.

 This little jacket looks great over skinny black pants, and a black tank. It is an example of how a fabric can dictate style.