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Wednesday, January 2, 2013

A Beautiful Finish for an Unlined Jacket

Here is a seam finish that can make the inside of an unlined jacket look really beautiful. This is a technique that is found in some high end designer clothing. It is called a Hong Kong finish.


I made a jacket out of a black denim. It had quite a few white fibers in it, so I paired it with a blue/black/white rayon print which will be made into a top.

 I cut 1 1/4" wide bias strips. The strips should be cut on the bias (45% angle) of the fabric to insure that they will wrap nicely around the seam allowances. I sewed the bias strips (right sides together) on the edge of all of  the seams of  the jacket. These were sewn at a scant 1/4". The binding was applied as I completed the various stages of the jacket construction.
 The narrow seams are now pressed with the seam allowances toward the bias strip.
The bias strip is now rolled around the raw fabric edge, and then the strips are held in place by sewing right on the seam connecting the two fabrics. This is called "stitching in the ditch". 

  This photo shows the intersection of the hem and the front facing. You can see that this seam finish gives a pop of color to the inside of the jacket, and it looks really nice.

This is the jacket with the print shell underneath. The Hong Kong seam finish inside this jacket is a wonderful surprise!

2 comments:

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